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Installation Tips for Pro 1 Risers

I often get asked what I needed to do to get the cables to fit with the Pro 1 Risers, so I decided to put them up here:

Note:  The cable lengths on these bikes vary from year to year and model to model (and maybe bike to bike all else being equal).  These suggestions are what worked on my bike - hopefully they will also work for yours.

Clutch cable:  Two things need to be done to get enough slack in the clutch cable.  The goal is that it won't bind when you turn the handlebars from full left to full right.  The clutch cable normally runs through a small ring guide that is located on the left side of the engine.  The cable needs to come out of this guide.  The cable also runs through a guide that is attached to the underside of the triple-T (using the left riser bolt).  Here you have two options:  Either eliminate the guide entirely or cut one of the crossbars out so the clutch cable can move freely.  If you do the latter, cut the crossbar with a heavy duty wire cutters or small hacksaw.  Be sure to eliminate all sharp edges left from the cut.  I filed mine smooth and then covered the cuts with electrical tape just to make sure.  Be sure to readjust the clutch cable for the proper free play when re-installing it.

Brake Line:  Two things need to be done to get more slack in the brake line.  The first is to rotate the banjo bolt that is connected to the brake control lever assembly so that it points straight down towards the wheel.  First put a rag under the bolt just in case of a leak - mine didn't leak at all but you don't want brake fluid on your paint.  Now just barely crack the bolt open - just enough so you can rotate the bolt.  Rotate the bolt and retighten.  If done correctly then you will not need to bleed the brake lines.  This may give you enough slack.  If not, then move the brake lever assembly towards the center of the handlebar about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.  Do this by loosening the bolts enough to slide the assembly and then retighten.  Make sure it is positioned properly for your hand.  Note:  This may leave the brake line fairly tight.  If you can grab the line in the center and move it side to side about an inch or more you have plenty of slack.  This piece of the brake line goes to a splitter on the fork.  The lines below the splitter that go to the brakes themselves are what move when the wheel turns or moves up and down.  The single line from the control never moves no matter where the bars are positioned or how much the forks compress.  So a little slack is just fine.

Throttle cables:  I did not need to do anything to the throttle cables.

General tips:  Get someone to help you!  Having two people makes all the difference when trying to remove and position the bars.  Protect your tank with many layers of a thick blanket or towels.